What's Cookin' - Easy, Humectant Wave/Curl Boosting Jelly

For this recipe, I was trying to keep what I like about Garnier Fructis Pure Clean Gel and leave what I don't like about it (the scent, too much glycerin and sorbitol, the silicate clay ingredient that is tricky to use).©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
A quick scan of the ingredients and I ruled out the things I didn't want to bother with and that aren't easy to get and formulate with. You can find all these ingredients at drugstores or grocery stores. This recipe is extremely simple, and very good for helping your hair form nice chunky waves and curls - it made mine less frizzy than usual. It has medium hold on its own. If you want more hold, layer some strong-hold gel over it.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
The ingredients:
Water: Solvent, dliutent
Xanthan gum: Creates a thick "gel," provides medium hold with humidity-resistance, may slow water loss.
Glycerin(e): Humectant, binds water, boosts curls (for some folks).
Acacia gum: Optional. Adds a bit of "crunch" for more hold. This is sold as a dietary soluble fiber supplement.

I use a double boiler (see my beat-up double boiler at right - it's a metal bowl set in a saucepan with water in the pan almost up to the level of the base of the bowl).
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
The recipe:

• 1 cup water (plus an extra tablespoon or 2 which will evaporate as you heat).
• 1 1/4 heaping teaspoons xanthan gum (2% or 5g)
• 1/2 teaspoon glycerin - make this a scant half-teaspoon; more than 1/4 teaspoon, less than 1/2 teaspoon (1% or 2.5 g)
• a pinch (1/16 teaspoon) acacia gum (gum arabic) - optional but good. You can use more - up to 1/2 teaspoon, for example, but you'll need to add conditioner or oil to balance out that stiffness.

Put all ingredients in the double boiler over medium to high heat. When water boils, turn it down. Whisk the ingredients well. The mixture will thicken within a few minutes. Whisk until no more xanthan gum powder is visible. Remove from heat and cool.

Pour into a sterilized bottle and refrigerate immediately - or add preservative according to manufacturer specifications. THAT'S IT! SO EASY.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
What else can I add?

• Magnesium sulfate (1/2 teaspoon) - this is also a humectant and curl enhancer but it can be drying to hair and cause friction.
• Oil - avocado, grapeseed, coconut, shea butter, sweet almond, jojoba...
• Gelatine or hydrolyzed protein such as Colorful Neutral Protein Filler (1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon)
• Aloe. Replace up to half of the water with aloe vera juice - the edible/drinkable kind, not a pre-thickened gel.

What else can I do with this gel? Make a mild shampoo!
Mix a tablespoon or 2 of this gel with a half-teaspoon of shampoo for a milder shampoo which spreads easily in the hair. Get really fancy and add extra oils, protein, clay, herbal extracts, honey, aloe vera juice or whatever you like for a mild, detangling shampoo with lots of hair benefits.

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