Itchy Scalp - Some Easy Remedies

Itchy (and dry) scalp is often accompanied
by flaking skin
Also see this newer post for some new ideas! Itchy Scalp can have lots of causes. "Dandruff" refers only to the flakes, not the cause of the flakes. Seborrheic dermatitis, also known as Seborrheic eczema is eczema, or a recurring inflammation (causing itching, rashes, scaling or "flaking") of the skin on oilier parts of the skin such as your scalp, eyebrows, face, chest. Most often associated with allergies, you can develop Seborrheic dermatitis as a result of contact with chemicals or friction on the skin. Once your skin has become inflamed and irritated, it's "waterproof" barrier has broken down - tiny cracks open up and allow chemicals through where they can cause further irritation. Elsewhere on your body, eczema usually looks like dry, red, flaky patches that don't become smooth or soft no matter how much skin lotion you apply. They may crack and bleed or get "weepy" and blister. On your scalp, your skin tries to make up for this loss of integrity by producing more oily sebum in a desperate attempt to avoid dehydration. The combination of sebum and available nutrients through access to deeper layers of your skin encourages overgrowth of bacteria and fungi which would normally live on your scalp in smaller numbers. The top layers of your skin and the sebum on top of your skin work to control infections, so when inflammation weakens the system, infections are likely to occur. The activities of these bacteria and fungi produce irritating chemicals as well. Your skin speeds up it's repair cycle, so there are more dead skin cells to slough off, and they tend to stick together under these conditions, causing flakes.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Red patches occurring on the
scalp with Seborrheic dermatitis
You might respond by scratching (don't do it!), by washing your hair or skin more often to remove the oils and flakes, and using dandruff shampoos. Shampooing with oil-stripping shampoos and dandruff shampoos can be counterproductive for an irritated scalp. I have yet to find a dandruff shampoo not loaded with coloring, fragrances (two big offenders in skin irritation) and other potentially irritating ingredients and I am amazed they do not cause scalp misery for more people.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
I'm going to suggest some ways to control itchy scalp and Seborrheic dermatitis which are mild to the skin and hair. You're always walking a tightrope between too much washing, which leaves your scalp dried out and irritated and not washing enough, which leaves dead skin and sebum and other things bacteria and fungi like to grow in, on your poor scalp.
The ideal maintenance (un-medicated) shampoo for itchy, flaky scalps has no fragrance, no colors, no formaldehyde-releasing preservatives. Phenoxyethanol is a newer preservative that also has a fairly high rate of irritancy. Mild detergents such as Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, Decyl polyglucoside, Lauryl glucoside are good to look for. Cocamidopropyl betaine can cause eyelid dermatitis, so be careful with that one. Alkyl sulfonates are good for removing excess oils (C14-18 olefin sulfonate, for example) as long as the shampoo is not highly concentrated. Diluting shampoos is a good idea to prevent over-cleaning. Steer clear of herbal extracts. Such a shampoo should be gentle on skin and hair, but still clean well enough to avoid overgrowth of organisms. Avoid heavily fragranced and colorful conditioners and styling products also, at least when your skin is acting up.

Powdery vs. greasy flakes: You might notice dry, powdery white flakes or greasy, yellowish flakes with or without an itchy scalp. These are usually both signs of skin irritation and breakdown of the skin's barrier function. The treatment is basically the same - but if you have dry, powdery flakes you need to be extra careful not to dry out the skin with hot water and too much detergent and keep your head protected from dry, cold or hot wind.

Sore or itchy bumps: Small cysts, or bumps on the scalp or around the hairline are also symptoms of dermatitis and tend to respond to the same treatments. Do not rub, scratch, or try to "pop" these bumps.

Before going further: Do not apply oil to your scalp and leave it on indefinitely! No matter how much sense this seems to make and no matter how good it might feel right now, any extra oil or scalp grease you apply is food for oil-loving fungi on your scalp. When they get a lot of food, they start eating and growing and reproducing and this is all very irritating to your skin. Oils you apply to the scalp need to be washed off after a limited amount of time or they work against you.


To deal with dry hair and medicated or frequent shampooing: Some people shampoo every day and this can help control flakes. If you need to do this, but it makes your hair feel dry, try applying some coconut oil, olive oil (other oils will work well too) to your dry hair just before shampooing. This will buffer the stripping effects of the shampoo on the natural oils on your hair. Or condition your hair before and after washing.

Sugar scrub: mix equal parts olive oil and sugar - it should be on the oily side, massage into dry scalp and leave on for at least 10 minutes, then shampoo out. 
Chemical exfoliants like Salicylic acid are commonly included in dandruff shampoos. Salicylic acid can be just awful for your hair! An alternative is to use a product made for skin (in the U.S., Scalpicin regular strength contains Salicylic acid) and apply it only to the scalp. Some acne medications have Salicylic acid as the active ingredient and could be applied with a cotton ball to affected areas of the scalp to control flakes without drying the hair excessively. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid. It breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells to help them slough off and is not repelled by oils, so it can get down through the sebum to help free up scaling skin so that it will not provide a good home for bacteria and fungi.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013



Control Itch: Topical hydrocortisone creams (1%) or solutions are commonly used for skin inflammation (allergic rashes, bee and wasp stings, hives) and can be helpful for itchy scalps. Scalpicin Maximum Strength contains hydrocortisone and is easy to apply as a liquid. Creams are more tricky to apply, but also help moisturize. Look for a cream with as few ingredients as possible. Hydrocortisone decreases the skin's inflammatory response to help reduce your symptoms and relieve itching. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Control Bacteria and Fungi: Tea Tree oil has mild anti-fungal and general anti-microbial properties. If you use a sugar scrub, you can add 10-15 drops tea tree oil to the scrub, or to your shampoo or conditioner. But be careful, it is possible to be allergic to tea tree oil! Test a little of your diluted tea tree oil solution behind your ear, in the crook of your elbow or wrist 48 hours before using - if there is any itching, bumps or a rash appear, do not use it on your scalp.  Here is a quick read about tea tree oil. They suggest that 10% tea tree oil solution controlled the symptoms of athlete's foot fungus (a different fungus than the one that tends to be a problem on your scalp). So if one tablespoon of olive oil weighs 14 grams, then you need 1.4 grams of tea tree oil per tablespoon oil, or just about 1/4 teaspoon tea tree oil per tablespoon of olive oil. Another study of Seborrheic dermatitis used 5% tea tree oil in shampoo for 4 weeks with improvements in itchiness and greasiness, and some improvement in flaking. You can read the abstract here. 5% tea tree oil in a teaspoon of shampoo is 1 drop per teaspoon (10% is 2.5 drops per teaspoon shampoo). Commercial antifungal shampoos (Nizoral with the antifungal Ketoconazole is an example) address the fungi directly whereas zinc and selenium shampoos may alter the sebum in a way that is unfriendly to fungi. Coal tar shampoos are effective for some people, and work by softening scales and slowing bacterial growth. Coal tar can make skin especially sensitive to sunlight - an important thing to know if you choose such a shampoo. While these shampoos can help control the secondary fungal overgrowth and reduce itching and flaking, they do not change the fact that Seborrheic dermatitis can flare up again. Many of them are full of potentially irritating chemicals, so if your scalp is red and irritated, be extremely wary. Never dilute a medicated shampoo! You'll dilute the medicine.

Control friction irritants: Use a satin pillowcase - or a silk one. Some people can be allergic to the protein on the outer part of the silk fibers. In fact, medical-grade silk (used for stitching wounds) has this protein removed to avoid reactions, so be wary. Satin is made from either polyester or acetate and in very dry air, this can cause static which is mostly just annoying. Using a humidifier helps with this. A slippery pillowcase will let your hair slide around as you move rather than tugging at your scalp or "scouring" your scalp when your hair sticks to the pillow but your scalp moves (like every time you breathe). Line winter hats with slippery fabric, put satin ribbon on the hat band of summer hats. Avoid hairstyles which pull on your hair and scalp - only loose and low ponytails. Every tug of hair in irritated skin makes it more irritated!©Science-y Hair Blog 2013



Chemical irritant avoidance: Avoid fragrances, artificial colorings, scented/colored laundry detergent, fabric softener in your laundry (think towels and pillowcases which touch your head). Try to avoid sleeping with hair products in your hair (gels, mousse, leave-in conditioners, hairspray) when you are having a flare-up of scalp itch because this increases your exposure to potentially irritating ingredients. While you put them on your hair, inevitably they contact your scalp, neck and ears. If a certain product irritates your skin, see if you can isolate which one it is and then check your other products (the ones that do not irritate your scalp). When you find ingredients in the itchy products which are NOT in the non-itchy products, consider those as potential irritants and try to avoid them.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013



Soothe dry scalp: Wear hats in cold, windy weather. Use the oil-sugar scrub described above to exfoliate flaky, dry surface skin and soften the scalp. You can also apply an oil like olive oil, apricot kernel oil, or coconut oil to your scalp (before showering). Warm it slightly first and leave it on for 30 minutes before washing your scalp and hair. Pierce a (liquid) vitamin E capsule and add it to the warmed oil for extra scalp benefits. If you have a single itchy, dry patch you can apply a little skin lotion or hydrocortisone cream if it is itchy. Some people can cleanse their scalp with conditioner. Often this is detrimental to irritated skin because of irritants in the conditioner, or because the conditioner itself aggravates the skin. Do not wash your hair daily if you have dry scalp. If you like to rinse out styling products like I do, rinse your hair and then keep it out of the shower spray - keeping an irritated scalp under warm water for too long tends to make it itchy and dehydrated. Avoid using shampoos which strip oils - this means look for a mild shampoo (one that also doesn't dry out your hands and face if you wash them with it) or dilute your shampoo with a generous portion of water just before using. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

Housekeeping: Wash your pillowcase weekly. If you have dust mite allergies or pet allergies or outdoor allergies and you keep your windows open, wash your sheets weekly and consider investing in an allergen-proof pillowcase (they have zippers), and possibly an allergen-proof mattress and box spring cover. When you wash your sheets and pillowcases, there are 2 ways to kill dust mites (otherwise you'll just have clean, live dust mites). You can wash the sheets in hot water - which may or may not be economical and be sure you read fabric care labels! Or you can add 35-40 drops of tea tree oil to the wash water. A dust-mite controlling laundry additive sold in the U.S. as De Mite uses tea tree oil and oil of wintergreen as active ingredients. Drying sheets in bright sunlight can also kill dust mites, but if you have outdoor allergies/hay fever, you will be very uncomfortable if you dry your sheets outdoors during allergy season. All this work pays off because it reduces your exposure to allergens and irritants. Even without hot water or tea tree oil, washing your sheets, pillowcases and blankets removes the dust mite allergens and the dead skin cells (yours) which are their food.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013


Some brands which offer fragrance-free shampoos and conditioners (I would dilute nearly ALL of these shampoos). Some will leave you with a squeaky-clean, tangly feeling. If well-diluted, that's just the effect of the shampoo, not necessarily hair damage. Some of the "mild" detergents are just weird like that. Using conditioner will restore your hair's nice feeling and detangle. I've linked to the shampoos, you can look around the websites for information about conditioners.

Earth Science
DHS
Free&Clear
Jason Natural
Stonybrook Botanicals
Rainbow Research
California Baby
Cliniderm (Canadians, the gentle cleanser might be a fantastic shampoo)
Magick Botanicals (Oil free shampoo and conditioner)
Avalon Organics (Olive and Grapeseed)
Desert Essence
Logona Free (ingredients can be found here)
Paula's Choice
Cure Care (conditioner only)
Unicure (shampoo and conditioner links at the bottom of the page)

Unscented bases: Another idea is to look for unscented shampoo (and conditioner) bases. You'll usually find these online. They are sold for the purpose of adding fragrances, colorings, and active ingredients - but you can buy them and use them as they come, or dilute them (I say that a lot, but it really works) either when you use them, or in a clean bottle with boiled and cooled, distilled water.
Disclaimer: None of this information is intended to cure skin disease. In fact, that's pretty hard to do, these remedies can treat the symptoms for healthy adults. If your scalp itch is so bad it distracts you from your activities, keeps you awake at night; if you have large areas covered with red patches, blisters or oozing places on your scalp, please see a doctor. Untreated, these lesions can become infected, hair loss can occur.

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What's Cookin' This Week: In the Bathtub


Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate - Epsom Salts!

Epsom Salt Soak (not really a recipe, just passing along the relaxation)

The recipe:
½ cup to 1 cup Epsom salts (depending on the size of your tub and depth of your bathwater)
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
That’s it. Sprinkle the salt into the bathtub as it fills and mix. Soak for at least 15 minutes – so bring a magazine, the newspaper, some music, or a good friend (a really, really good friend) and enjoy!
Be sure to rinse with fresh water or you’ll have a very tacky residue on your skin.
I prefer to keep my hair out of the water, or only give it a quick dunk and then wash out the salt.
Get your Epsom salts at a drugstore (pharmacy, druggist, chemist), avoid using the kind you buy at a garden shop.

The Nitty-Gritty©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Prolonged exposure to very warm water is drying to the skin because the components of the top layers of the skin which retain moisture are water soluble.

But there are those days when sore muscles and joints or the need to relax profoundly, overwhelm concerns about skin. If you have never had a bath with Epsom salts, you don’t know what you’re missing.

Why/How Do Epsom Salts Work?©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Epsom salts are magnesium sulfate (MgSO4). Just magnesium and sulfur and oxygen. And they’re not merely acting on your skin. While you might think of salts as being bad for skin, think of this: if you are swimming in fresh water and you get some in your nose, it burns, you sneeze. No fun. If you swim in the ocean and get salt water in your nose, no such reaction. When you have a skinned knee or a bad burn, it is far less painful to wash the raw skin with (sterile) saline solution than with plain water. Sterile saline solution is a good thing to have in your medicine cabinet! I buy sterile saline meant for contact lenses (this is not a contact lens cleaner) to wash nasty injuries. It’s especially good for kids and pets who don’t like to have wounds cleaned. My point is, Epsom salt isn’t likely to cure anything, but it won’t hurt you. I suppose one could hypothesize that the sulfate component (or just the "saltiness in general) could be good for treating oozing-type rashes like poison ivy or eczema, and it might discourage skin fungal infections, but I can’t back that up with any facts.

Deeper Than Skin Deep©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
The amount to use is about 1% Epsom salt. At this concentration, your body will actually absorb some of the magnesium and sulfur from the water. 1% was the reliable level required in a study conducted to test whether the minerals from Epsom salt could be absorbed trans-dermally, to increase blood levels of these minerals. Too much Epsom salt will make the water feel slippery or slimy. My bathtub is 54x23 inches, if I fill it with 5 inches of water (length x width x depth) that equals 6210 cubic inches (about 27 gallons or 102 liters). That’s not totally accurate, the back of my tub slopes. So I would add from  ½ to 1 cup of Epsom salts. Some of the subjects tested absorbed minerals at lower concentrations – so there is a range in the recipe. If you have a large tub and take a very deep bath, use 1 1/2 to 2 cups of Epsom salts.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

After one bath, the test subjects had an increase in blood levels of magnesium of around 45% and a 50% increase in sulfate. After 24 hours, the magnesium has left your body, but the sulfate may be stored until your body has as much as it needs.

What is magnesium good for? Magnesium plays an important role in contraction and particularly relaxation of muscles. Maybe this is why an Epsom salt bath is so deliciously relaxing. You also use magnesium in the enzymes which control so many chemical reactions in your body, and in the process of manufacturing proteins to maintain and repair your body. And, of course, you need it in your bones! If you drink hard water, you get more magnesium than soft water drinkers. Otherwise, we get magnesium from fruits and vegetables, nuts, and whole grains.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

Sulfate – now this gets really interesting. Sulfate is required to produce compounds in cartilage (chonrdoitin sulfate), lipids used in your brain (remember, your brain is mostly fat!). When your hair is actively growing, it uses chondroitin sulfate, and skin also uses chonrdoitin sulfate to stay healthy (chonrdoitin sulfate is part of connective tissue, which includes skin). The sulfate we ingest comes from protein-containing foods and from our drinking water. There is no RDA set for sulfur or sulfate, but if you don’t eat many protein-containing foods (you’re a vegan or nearly so), or have difficulty absorbing nutrients, a little extra sulfate might help and is not likely to hurt. As hair and skin go, too little sulfur in your diet can lead to easily-damaged hair and skin disorders.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

You would have to take Epsom salt baths a number of times to increase the levels of these minerals consistently,  (okay, I need to correct myself here, sulfate is a salt by itself, not a mineral) but even if you rarely indulge in baths, I’ve just laid out another good excuse to slide into a warm tub.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
If you have a chronic disease such as high blood pressure, you should check with a doctor before using Epsom salts in your bath – altering the magnesium in your blood might be incompatible with blood pressure medication. And don’t drink the water from the bath or let your dog or cat drink the water, Epsom salts are also used as a laxative. The increases in magnesium and sulfate in blood from Epsom salts in bath water were determined to be safe for healthy adults only.

That's all for now - enjoy the soak.


National Research Council. "7 Sulfate." 2005 Dietary Reference Intakes for Water, Potassium, Sodium, Chloride, and Sulfate. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press.

Westgate GE, Messenger AG, Watson LP, Gibson WT. 1991 Feb;96(2):191-5. Distribution of proteoglycans during the hair growth cycle in human skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Report on Absorption of Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom salts) Across the Skin
RH Waring, School of Biosciences, University of Birmingham. U.K.

Verges J, Montell E, Herrero M, Perna C, Cuevas J, Perez M, Moller I., 2004. Clinical and Histopathological Improvement of Psoriasis in Patients with Osteoarthritis Treated with Chondroitin Sulfate: Report of 3 cases. Medicina Clínica.

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Lining Winter Hats


Let’s talk about hats in winter. You need to protect your head, your ears and (of course) your hair from the cold, dry air and the wind. Your ears will never forgive you if they get frostbitten because you did not wear a hat for fear of messing up your hair! Frostbite (when your skin actually freezes and even blisters) anywhere on your body is an unforgettable experience. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

What about your hair under that necessary hat? You would not take a very fine wool sweater, wrap it around your head, and then pull on a tight cap and go for a walk or out to shovel snow. If you did, you’d find that lovely sweater matted, fuzzy, undefined, losing shape and over time, developing thin patches from breakage. I wear a hat a few times each day in winter for about  4 months of the year. It adds up to many hours that could damage the strong-but-delicate fiber on my head which is my hair. Not to mention irritating sensitive skin.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

First I lined my husband’s stocking cap with some satin (acetate). Directions and a link to better directions follow. But I’ll tell you right now, this is not the best fabric to choose for a full hat lining! Not unless you can find some very thin and flexible satin. Husband, good sport that he is, pulled on the hat and declared it would be “extremely warm” and “probably work out just fine.” Translation, “I think I liked it better without the lining.” I pulled his hat on and found I could not hear a thing. And the satin was thick, so the hat might have been too warm and stiff. Lesson: If you’re using satin, don’t line over the ears and don’t use it for a snug-fitting cap.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

I recommend using silk or a silky, lightweight fabric (like swimwear or a silky scarf you might find at a thrift shop or second-hand store). It’s thinner, lighter and preserves your hearing. You can try to find bits from the end of a bolt of silk at a fabric store (my local fabric store did not stock silks at all – special order only), or do what I did, buy an inexpensive silk pillowcase and use that for several hats!

©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Here is how I lined the stocking cap: First, measure around your head. The lining needs to be cut at least ½ inch or 1 cm wider than your head’s circumference to allow for stitching. Cut a rectangle using the number you just calculated, using the hat for a height guide. Leave a little extra fabric on top and bottom for stitching. Next, you’ll fold over and sew the top and bottom of your rectangle so the edges do not fray. (See  blue arrows). After you do that, you can fold the rectangle in half with the SHINY SIDES TOGETHER and sew a seam here, no more than the ½ inch or 1 cm allowance you calculated (see the photo below).
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
To make the lining fit better in a tapered hat like this one, cut one side at an angle like this (as shown at left) and sew up that side just like you did to close the rectangle.

Next, you need to gather the top, so thread a needle and sew in and out around the open top (it’s a circle now that you’ve sewn the ends of the rectangle together), then pull the thread so that the top puckers and closes up like this.




Now all you need to do is to slip the lining into the hat. If it’s too long, fold up the edge and sew it there.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
You’ll want to hand or machine sew the lining to the hat with a very loose stitch around the bottom of the hat, and also put in a few stitches at the top of the hat so the lining doesn’t pull out or slide around. If you fold the brim of your hat like the one shown, sew the lining in above the fold. You’ll need to try it on and mark where you fold the hat or else pin it in it’s “folded” position so the lining isn’t sticking out.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

Line a Tam

I like my tam for not smashing my hair. I wear it with my hair piled into the slouchy part in back. But it’s lined differently than the stocking cap. You could cut a big circle for the top, a long rectangle to go around, sew them together to form a tabular shape (a cloche or bell-shape) and be done with it. But I wanted to keep the roomy slouch. This makes my acrylic tam warmer and more windproof.


First, make a pattern. I used newspaper and cut a circle wide enough to fold in and meet the brim of the tam which is shown in middle – it’s brown. My circle was 18 inches (46 cm). I used the ruler shown and a marker as a protractor for an even circle. The ruler has a little hole in one end. I may be a sloppy seamstress, but that’s no excuse to let a chance to use a protractor escape!
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

Next I cut some V-shaped vents so that I could fold the sides in without a lot of bulk. I judged their size by folding them in, clipping them together and then trying on the newspaper pattern until it closely matched the dimensions of my hat. My V-shaped vents were about 2 inches wide at the widest (5 cm) How cute do I look in a newspaper tam? You'll never know!

I cut the silk using the now-fitted pattern. I folded the edges over and sewed them on a machine with a tight stitch to prevent fraying. Sew the edge folding the dull, less smooth side towards dull side. I sewed the V-shaped vents together with the same tight stitch. To keep the slippery/shiny side facing in towards your head and the seams facing away from your head, put the smooth, shiny sides facing each other as you sew these V-shaped seams. 
This looks feminine and delicate, seems a shame to stuff it in my pilled, dog-chewed brown hat...

Finally insert the lining into the hat, shiny side facing in (towards your head). I went a little overboard sewing the lining in here and if you don’t want it to show, sew it a little higher. I find the band of this hat itchy, so I sewed it right up to the edge.


Lastly, you’ll want to sew the lining to the hat in a few places around the sides and the back so that it is easier to put on and take off and the lining doesn’t bunch up, slide around, or pull out when you take the hat off.


This is a project that will require about an hour and probably more than a few obscenities. But it is so very worth it when you feel how soft the lining is on your skin and hair. If you have even very basic sewing skills, you can pull this off. It doesn’t have to look good, it just needs to be functional.  Good luck!

Here is a link for more instructions for lining a snug-fitting cap: http://nownormaknits2.typepad.com/now_norma_knits_2/2006/11/how_to_line_a_h.html

This is an alternative way to make a lining for a slouchy hat like a tam, but it doesn’t provide as much room for longer hair: 







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